My heart pounds and I shiver despite the trickles of sweat running down my back. I am hyper-alert, terrified, every sense operating on high. My ears are tuned for elephants or buffalo crashing through the bush, my eyes focusing through the swirling dust for a lion or leopard that is going to jump out of the tall grass and eat me. Not that hearing the animals in advance is going to help. By then it will be too late.