A small island sits in the blue-green waters of a little bay on the Horseshoe Point Track.

New Zealand Walks for Wimps: Horseshoe Point Track

It was pretty hard to get up. Why would I even want to? Sitting on the pure white sand with my legs stretched out before me, facing the ultra-clear blue water of Dead Man Beach and basking in the warm sunshine, I was very content.. Why move? But I had to, because as glorious as that was, I still had a walk to finish by the end of the day, and I had no idea how much further I needed to go.

Standing at the Cook Memorial overlooking Cook's Cove, Tolaga Bay, East Cape, New Zealand

New Zealand Walks for Wimps: Cook’s Cove Walkway

In summer I can imagine Cook’s Cove Walkway is busy, the short trail well trodden by people drawn to this site that is not only stunning but also has a history dating back to 1769. But Cook’s Cove was deserted at this time of year, the chilly grey weather of late July turning people off driving the hour from Gisborne to come here. It was one of the most quiet and peaceful places I’ve ever been.

View of Hahei Beach with the Pa site on the peninsula at the far end, seen from the road near Cathedral Cove parking lot.

New Zealand Walks for Wimps: Hahei Pa Sites

Suddenly the ocean was surrounding me on three sides. Ahead, it stretched out for miles, all the way to the horizon and beyond my range of vision, interrupted only by a few small islands. To my right it collided with the steep cliffs, carving narrow caves and crevasses in the soft rock. And to my left it was calm and shallow, lapping gently on the bay’s long sandy beach, and I could see right down to the bottom through the swaying kelp and stands of coral.